That special skein of DK weight yarn in the dreamiest lavender shade — the one you’ve been saving for exactly the right project? This is it. The Lavender Cottage Babydoll Dress is a genuine showstopper: an off-the-shoulder midi with a chevron lace bodice, puff sleeves with ruffle cuffs, and a gathered A-line skirt finished with an open fan border. Let’s be real about the commitment though — this is a 40 to 55 hour project, rated intermediate to advanced, and it is worth every single stitch.
About This Crochet Pattern
This midi-length babydoll dress has an off-the-shoulder neckline trimmed with a scalloped picot edging for that romantic, vintage feel. The fitted Empire-style bodice uses a dense chevron lace texture that gives structure while still looking delicate. The puffed short sleeves with ruffle cuffs are worked separately and joined to the bodice at the armhole openings.
The gathered A-line skirt is worked in the round from the waist down in a vertical lace column stitch, with open channels running from waist to hem. At the bottom, an open fan border adds approximately four inches of lacework that catches the light beautifully.
Two lengths of white satin ribbon complete the look: one threads through an eyelet row at the waist and ties in a bow at front center, and the second weaves horizontally through the eyelets near the hem. The dress is designed to fit a standard US women’s size Medium (dress sizes 8 through 10), with size customization instructions included at the end of the pattern.
Skill Level
Intermediate to Advanced. You should have completed at least two garment projects before attempting this dress. You’ll need to be comfortable working in the round, following lace stitch pattern repeats, shaping puff sleeves, joining sleeves to a bodice, constructing an eyelet waist, and adding multiple decorative edgings. That said, a confident intermediate crocheter can absolutely do this — the pattern breaks everything into manageable sections and each technique is explained thoroughly.
Finished Measurements
All dimensions are for the completed and blocked dress:
- Bust: 36 inches (91.5 cm)
- Waist (relaxed, before ribbon cinching): 34 inches (86.5 cm)
- Hip: 44 inches (112 cm)
- Total length (shoulder to hem): 38 inches (96.5 cm)
- Bodice length (neckline to waist): 10 inches (25.5 cm)
- Skirt length (waist to hem, excluding border): 22 inches (56 cm)
- Hem border depth: 4 inches (10 cm)
- Sleeve length: 5 inches (12.5 cm)
Materials Needed
Yarn
- Main Color (MC): Soft lavender DK weight yarn, approximately 1,400 yards (1,280 meters)
- Contrast Color (CC): White satin ribbon, 3 yards (2.75 meters), 3/8-inch (1 cm) wide — for the waist tie and hem accent, not crocheted
Yarn Suggestions
- Option 1: A pastel purple acrylic DK weight yarn (machine washable, excellent stitch definition for lace, soft drape for warm weather wear).
- Option 2: A misty purple 100 percent acrylic DK yarn with a smooth plied construction that works up cleanly in lace patterns and holds its shape after blocking.
- Option 3: A lilac soft merino-blend DK yarn with a slight halo that enhances the romantic cottage aesthetic (requires hand washing).
Substitution note: choose any DK weight yarn, approximately 200 to 220 yards per 100 gram skein, that achieves gauge. A smooth, tightly plied yarn shows the lace texture most clearly — avoid fluffy or bouclé yarns, as they obscure stitch definition. If substituting a cotton-blend, purchase an additional 10 percent yardage, as cotton has less elasticity and the bodice may require more rows to reach the correct length.
Hooks
- Size US E-4 (3.5 mm) crochet hook for bodice and sleeves
- Size US F-5 (3.75 mm) crochet hook for skirt and borders
Notions
- Stitch markers (6)
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Rust-proof blocking pins
- Blocking mats or towels
- 3 yards (2.75 meters) white satin ribbon, 3/8-inch (1 cm) wide
- Safety pin or bodkin for threading ribbon
- Dress form or mannequin (optional, for blocking)
Gauge
- Bodice gauge (E-4 / 3.5 mm hook, chevron lace pattern): 18 stitches and 14 rows = 4 inches (10 cm), blocked
- Skirt gauge (F-5 / 3.75 mm hook, vertical lace column pattern): 16 stitches and 10 rows = 4 inches (10 cm), blocked
Gauge is critical for this garment — the bodice must fit snugly at the bust while the skirt drapes correctly. Swatch both sections before beginning and adjust hook size as needed. Do not proceed without achieving gauge.
For the bodice swatch: chain 24, work 16 rows of the Chevron Lace Stitch as described in Special Stitches, then block before measuring. For the skirt swatch: chain 22, work 12 rows of the Vertical Lace Column Stitch, then block before measuring.
Abbreviations
- beg = beginning
- BLO = back loop only
- ch = chain
- ch-sp = chain space
- cont = continue
- dc = double crochet
- dc2tog = double crochet two together
- dec = decrease
- ea = each
- est = established
- hdc = half double crochet
- inc = increase
- lp(s) = loop(s)
- MC = main color
- patt = pattern
- pm = place marker
- rem = remaining
- rep = repeat
- rnd = round
- RS = right side
- sc = single crochet
- sk = skip
- sl st = slip stitch
- sm = slip marker
- sp = space
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- t-ch = turning chain
- tog = together
- WS = wrong side
- yo = yarn over
Special Stitches
Scallop Edging Stitch
Work 5 dc into the same stitch or space to create one scallop shell. Skip 2 stitches between each scallop unless otherwise noted.
Picot
Chain 3, then slip stitch into the first chain made. This forms a small decorative loop.
Puff Stitch
Yarn over, insert hook into designated stitch or space, pull up a loop to the height of a dc (3 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch or space, pull up a loop (5 loops on hook). Yarn over, insert hook into the same stitch or space, pull up a loop (7 loops on hook). Yarn over and draw through all 7 loops. Chain 1 to close. This counts as 1 puff stitch.
Chevron Lace Stitch (worked flat, multiple of 6 plus 2)
Row 1 (RS): Chain 3 (counts as dc here and throughout). Dc in 4th chain from hook. (Ch 1, skip 2 chains, dc in next chain, dc in next chain) across, ending dc in last chain. Turn.
Row 2 (WS): Chain 1. Sc in first dc. (Ch 3, skip 2 sts, sc in next dc, sc in next dc) across. Turn.
Row 3 (RS): Chain 3. Dc in first sc. (Ch 1, skip ch-3 sp, dc in next sc, dc in next sc) across. Turn.
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 for pattern.
Vertical Lace Column Stitch (worked in the round, multiple of 8)
Round 1: (Dc in next 3 sts, ch 2, skip 2 sts, dc in next 3 sts) around.
Round 2: (Dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in ch-2 sp, dc in next 3 sts) around.
Round 3: (Dc in next 2 sts, ch 2, skip 1 st, dc in ch-sp, ch 2, skip 1 st, dc in next 2 sts) around.
Round 4: (Dc in next 2 sts, dc in ch-sp, dc, dc in ch-sp, dc in next 2 sts) around.
Repeat Rounds 1 through 4 for pattern.
Fan Border Stitch (worked in the round, multiple of 10)
Round 1: (Sc in next st, ch 5, skip 4 sts) around.
Round 2: (Sc in ch-5 sp, ch 5) around.
Round 3: (7 dc in ch-5 sp, sc in next ch-5 sp) around.
Round 4: Sl st across first 3 dc of each fan. (Ch 5, sc between 2 fans) around.
Round 5: (7 dc in ch-5 sp, sc between fans) around.
Eyelet Row (worked flat or in the round)
(Dc in next 2 sts, ch 1, skip 1 st) around or across. This creates evenly spaced eyelets for ribbon threading.
Pattern Notes
- The dress is constructed from the top down. The bodice neckline is established first with a foundation chain, worked flat briefly to create front and back bodice panels, then joined and worked in the round.
- Sleeves are worked separately in the round and then joined to the bodice at the armhole openings.
- The skirt is worked in the round from the waist downward, with gentle shaping to create the gathered A-line silhouette.
- All measurements assume the finished and blocked garment. Blocking is not optional — the lace patterns need wet blocking to open up to full dimensions and for the ribbon threading spaces to be accessible.
- The off-the-shoulder neckline gets its scallop-picot edging after the bodice is complete; the elastic stitch pattern plus the ribbon drawstring at the waist provides the structure.
- Turning chains count as stitches throughout except where noted.
- The white satin ribbon at the waist is threaded through the eyelet row after blocking and tied in a bow at front center. A second length of ribbon is woven horizontally through the uppermost row of the Fan Border near the hem and tied or tacked at the side seam.
- The right side of the chevron lace is the side facing you on Row 1.
- When working in the round, join each round with a slip stitch to the top of the beginning chain unless otherwise noted. Chain 3 at the start of rounds counts as 1 dc.
- Place stitch markers at the two underarm points and at center front and center back when working the bodice flat.
Step by Step Instructions
Section 1: Neckline Foundation
The neckline foundation chain establishes the off-the-shoulder width. This section is worked flat, then joined.
Using E-4 hook and MC, chain 164.
Row 1 (Foundation, RS): Dc in 4th chain from hook (first 3 ch count as dc). Dc in each chain across. (162 dc)
Row 2 (Neckline picot edging, applied immediately before joining): Do not turn. Working along the top edge of Row 1 (the initial chain edge), join yarn with sl st to the first chain. Ch 1. Work 1 sc in same st. (Ch 3, sl st in first ch of ch-3 to form picot, skip 1 chain, sc in next chain) across the foundation chain edge. Fasten off. This creates the picot scallop neckline. (Approximately 54 picots)
Return to working end of Row 1. Do not fasten off.
Section 2: Bodice (Worked Flat in Two Panels Then Joined)
After completing Row 1 of the neckline (162 dc), work as follows. Stitch distribution: place stitch markers after stitch 30 (left front/left armhole divide), after stitch 50 (left armhole/back divide), after stitch 112 (back/right armhole divide), after stitch 132 (right armhole/right front divide). This leaves 30 stitches for left front, 20 for left armhole gap, 62 for back, 20 for right armhole gap, and 30 for right front. The armhole gap stitches will be skipped when the bodice is joined in the round, and sleeve stitches will be picked up around them.
Left Front Panel (30 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Work Row 2 of Chevron Lace Stitch across 30 sts. (30 sts)
Row 4: Ch 3, turn. Work Row 3 of Chevron Lace Stitch across. (30 sts)
Rows 5 through 18: Continue in Chevron Lace Stitch, alternating Rows 2 and 3 of the pattern. (30 sts each row)
Row 19 (Eyelet row for left front waist): Ch 3, turn. (Dc in next 2 sts, ch 1, skip 1 st) across. (30 sts with 10 eyelets)
Row 20: Ch 3, turn. Dc in each st and ch-1 sp across. (30 sts)
Fasten off.
Back Panel (62 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Work Row 2 of Chevron Lace Stitch across 62 sts. (62 sts)
Row 4: Ch 3, turn. Work Row 3 of Chevron Lace Stitch across. (62 sts)
Rows 5 through 18: Continue in Chevron Lace Stitch, alternating Rows 2 and 3 of the pattern. (62 sts each row)
Row 19 (Eyelet row for back waist): Ch 3, turn. (Dc in next 2 sts, ch 1, skip 1 st) across, ending dc in last 2 sts. (62 sts with 20 eyelets)
Row 20: Ch 3, turn. Dc in each st and ch-1 sp across. (62 sts)
Fasten off.
Right Front Panel (30 sts)
Work identically to Left Front Panel. (30 sts)
Fasten off.
Checkpoint: after completing all three bodice panels through Row 20, each panel should measure approximately 6 inches (15 cm) in height, not including the neckline row. The total flat width across the neckline should still be 36 inches (91.5 cm).
Section 3: Joining Bodice and Armhole Setup
With RS facing, lay the bodice flat. Line up the left front panel edge with the back panel left edge and slip stitch or seam the side seams together using a tapestry needle and yarn tail, leaving the armhole openings (20 sts each side) unseamed. Repeat for right front and right back. The bodice is now a tube with two armhole openings.
Join MC with sl st at the left side seam at the bottom edge of the bodice (Row 20 edge). Chain 3. Work 1 dc in each st around the bottom edge of all three joined panels. Total waist stitches when joined: 30 (left front) plus 62 (back) plus 30 (right front) = 122 sts plus approximately 2 sts picked up at each seam = 126 sts.
Round 21 (Joining round, worked in the round): Dc in each of the 126 sts around. Join with sl st to top of beginning ch-3. (126 dc)
Round 22 (Waist eyelet round, for ribbon threading): Ch 3. (Dc in next 2 sts, ch 1, skip 1 st) around, ending sl st to top of ch-3. (126 sts: 84 dc plus 42 ch-1 sps)
Round 23 (Waist stabilizer round): Ch 3. Dc in each st and each ch-1 sp around. Join. (126 dc)
Checkpoint: after Round 23 the bodice tube should measure 10 inches (25.5 cm) from neckline to bottom edge, and the waist circumference should be approximately 34 inches (86.5 cm). The eyelet channel in Round 22 should be clearly visible for ribbon threading.
Section 4: Sleeves (Make Two)
Each sleeve is worked in the round from the armhole opening outward toward the cuff.
Using E-4 hook and MC, join yarn with sl st to the armhole opening at the underarm point.
Round 1 (Armhole pickup): Ch 3. Work 2 dc in each of the 20 armhole sts around, plus pick up approximately 10 sts along each side of the armhole opening from the bodice rows (approximately 10 sts per side), for a total of approximately 60 dc. Join with sl st to top of ch-3. (60 dc). Note: adjust pickup count to the nearest multiple of 6 so that 60 is confirmed (60 divided by 6 = 10 repeats).
Round 2: Ch 3. Dc in each st around. Join. (60 dc)
Round 3: Ch 3. (Dc in next 4 sts, dc2tog) around. Join. (50 dc)
Round 4: Ch 3. Dc in each st around. Join. (50 dc)
Round 5: Ch 3. (Dc in next 3 sts, dc2tog) around. Join. (40 dc)
Round 6: Ch 3. Dc in each st around. Join. (40 dc)
Round 7: Ch 3. Dc2tog 5 times evenly spaced around. Dc in remaining sts. (35 dc)
Round 8: Ch 3. Dc in each st around. Join. (35 dc)
Round 9 (Cuff puff ruffle setup): Ch 3. (Puff st in next st, ch 1, skip 1 st) around. Join. Work (puff st, ch 1, skip 1) 17 times. Dc in last st. (17 puff sts, 17 skipped sts, 1 final dc = 35 sts confirmed)
Round 10 (Cuff scallop): Ch 1. (Sc in ch-1 sp, 4 dc in top of puff st, sc in next ch-1 sp) across. For the odd stitch at end: sc in last dc. Join. Approximately 17 mini scallops.
Round 11 (Cuff picot edging): Sl st to first sc. (Ch 3, sl st into first ch to form picot, sl st to next sc) around. Fasten off.
Weave in ends on both sleeves.
Checkpoint: each sleeve should measure approximately 5 inches (12.5 cm) from the armhole pickup row to the bottom of the cuff ruffle. The puff stitch rounds should create a gentle gathered effect near the cuff.
Section 5: Skirt (Worked in the Round From Waist Down)
Switch to F-5 hook. Join MC with sl st to Round 23 (waist) at center back.
Round 1 (Waist increase round): Ch 3. Work 2 dc in each of the 126 sts around, and additionally work a 3rd dc (extra increase) into the sts at positions 1, 32, 64, and 96 (4 evenly spaced positions). Total dc: 252 plus 4 = 256. Join. (256 dc)
Round 2: Ch 3. Work Vertical Lace Column Stitch Round 1 around all 256 sts. (256 dc, with ch-2 sps)
Round 3: Work Vertical Lace Column Stitch Round 2 around. (256 dc)
Round 4: Work Vertical Lace Column Stitch Round 3 around. (256 sts, structured with ch-sps)
Round 5: Work Vertical Lace Column Stitch Round 4 around. (256 dc)
Rounds 6 through 9: Repeat Vertical Lace Column Stitch Rounds 1 through 4. (256 dc each round)
Round 10 (First skirt increase round): Ch 3. Work the Vertical Lace Column Stitch Round 1, but work an extra dc at every 8th repeat position. This adds 32 dc. Total: 256 plus 32 = 288 dc. (288 dc)
Rounds 11 through 13: Work Vertical Lace Column Stitch Rounds 2, 3, and 4 over the 288 sts. (288 dc each round)
Round 14: Work Vertical Lace Column Stitch Round 1. (288 dc)
Rounds 15 through 17: Work Vertical Lace Column Stitch Rounds 2, 3, and 4. (288 dc)
Round 18 (Second skirt increase round): Ch 3. Work Vertical Lace Column Stitch Round 1 with extra dc at every 9th repeat position (32 increases). Total: 288 plus 32 = 320 dc. (320 dc)
Rounds 19 through 21: Work Vertical Lace Column Stitch Rounds 2, 3, and 4. (320 dc)
Round 22: Work Vertical Lace Column Stitch Round 1. (320 dc)
Rounds 23 through 25: Work Vertical Lace Column Stitch Rounds 2, 3, and 4. (320 dc)
Round 26 (Third skirt increase round): Work with extra increases to reach 360 dc. Work: Ch 3. Work Vertical Lace Column Stitch Round 1, adding 1 extra dc at every 8th repeat for 40 evenly spaced increases. 320 plus 40 = 360 dc. (360 dc)
Rounds 27 through 29: Work Vertical Lace Column Stitch Rounds 2, 3, and 4. (360 dc)
Round 30: Work Vertical Lace Column Stitch Round 1. (360 dc)
Rounds 31 through 33: Work Vertical Lace Column Stitch Rounds 2, 3, and 4. (360 dc)
Round 34 (Hem ribbon eyelet round): Ch 3. (Dc in next 2 sts, ch 1, skip 1 st) around. Join. (360 sts: 240 dc plus 120 ch-1 sps)
Round 35 (Stabilizer before border): Ch 3. Dc in each st and ch-sp around. Join. (360 dc)
Checkpoint: after Round 35, the skirt should measure approximately 22 inches (56 cm) from the waist join. The circumference at the hem should be approximately 90 inches (228.5 cm), confirming the full gathered A-line silhouette. The eyelet round at Round 34 should be clearly visible for the decorative ribbon accent.
Section 6: Hem Fan Border
The Fan Border is worked over a multiple of 10 stitches. Round 35 ends with 360 dc. 360 divided by 10 = 36 repeats. Confirmed.
Round 36 (Fan Border Round 1): Ch 1. (Sc in next st, ch 5, skip 4 sts) around. Join to first sc. (72 sc plus 36 ch-5 sps)
Round 37 (Fan Border Round 2): Sl st into first ch-5 sp. Ch 1. (Sc in ch-5 sp, ch 5) around. Join. (36 sc plus 36 ch-5 sps)
Round 38 (Fan Border Round 3): Sl st into first ch-5 sp. Ch 3. Work 6 more dc into same ch-5 sp (7 dc total in sp). Sc in next ch-5 sp. (7 dc in ch-5 sp, sc in next ch-5 sp) around. Join. (36 fans of 7 dc each plus 36 sc)
Round 39 (Fan Border Round 4): Sl st across to center (4th) dc of first fan. Ch 1. Sc in center dc. (Ch 5, sc in center dc of next fan) around. Join. (36 sc plus 36 ch-5 sps)
Round 40 (Fan Border Round 5): Sl st into first ch-5 sp. Ch 3. 6 more dc in same sp (7 dc total). Sc in next sc between fans. (7 dc in ch-5 sp, sc in sc) around. Join. (36 fans of 7 dc each plus 36 sc)
Round 41 (Scallop picot edging, final row): Sl st to 4th dc of first fan. Ch 1. Sc in 4th dc. (Picot: ch 3, sl st in first ch, sc in 4th dc of next fan, ch 2, sc in sc between fans) around. Join. Fasten off.
Checkpoint: the fan border should add approximately 4 inches (10 cm) to the skirt length. The final scallop-picot edge should align visually with the picot edging at the neckline, giving the dress a cohesive look.
Section 7: Finishing
Weave in all ends using a tapestry needle. Ensure all yarn tails are secured on the wrong side.
Seam check: if any side seam gaps are visible at the bodice armhole join areas, close them with a few whipstitches using the tapestry needle and yarn tail.
Ribbon threading (waist): cut one piece of white satin ribbon measuring approximately 50 inches (127 cm). Thread the ribbon through the eyelet round at the waist (Round 22) using a safety pin or bodkin. Begin and end at center front. Ensure the ribbon is not twisted inside the eyelets. Pull ends through evenly so both tails are equal length. Tie in a bow at center front.
Ribbon threading (hem accent): cut one piece of white satin ribbon measuring approximately 60 inches (152 cm). Thread this ribbon through the eyelet round near the hem (Round 34) beginning at one side seam. Weave the ribbon over and under the dc columns around the entire hem circumference. Join both ends at the starting point with a small hand stitch or simple knot hidden at the side seam.
Blocking Your Lavender Cottage Babydoll Dress
Wet blocking is required for this dress — do not skip this step. Fill a sink or basin with cool water and submerge the entire dress, pressing gently to saturate the yarn. Do not wring or twist. Lift carefully and press gently between two clean towels to remove excess water. Lay flat on blocking mats or clean towels, or place on a dress form if available. Pin the hem border fans open to display the lace pattern. Allow to dry completely before wearing. The lace patterns need wet blocking to open up to their full dimensions, and the ribbon threading spaces must be accessible before you complete the finishing touches.
Tips for Success
- Take your time with gauge. The bodice needs to fit snugly while the skirt drapes correctly — swatching first saves you from frogging later.
- Use stitch markers liberally. With multiple panels and repeat patterns, markers are your best friends.
- Block before threading ribbons. The eyelets need to open up fully first.
- Check your work at each checkpoint. Catching a sizing issue early saves major rework.
Final Thoughts
This Lavender Cottage Babydoll Dress is one of those projects that reminds you why you fell in love with crochet in the first place. Yes, it’s a commitment — but the moment you block that fan border and thread the ribbon through the waist, you’ll see it was worth it. Wear it somewhere wonderful.
