I don’t know about you, but I absolutely melt when I see a little one dressed in handmade clothes. There’s something about a toddler in a crocheted outfit that makes my heart skip a beat every single time. This daisy granny square jumpsuit has been living in my head rent-free for months, and I finally get to share it with you.
You will make 96 squares for size 12 to 18 months, or 104 squares for sizes 18 to 24 months and 2T to 3T. Every square follows the same color sequence: Round 1: CB (yellow bobble center), Round 2: CC (white petals), Round 3: MC (sage green background), Round 4: CA (cream joining/border round).
Materials You’ll Need
- Yarn: DK weight
- Main Color (MC) in Sage Green: approximately 400 (450, 500) yards / 366 (411, 457) meters
- Color A (CA) in Cream or Off-White: approximately 300 (340, 380) yards / 274 (311, 347) meters
- Color B (CB) in Bright Yellow: approximately 80 (90, 100) yards / 73 (82, 91) meters
- Color C (CC) in White: approximately 120 (135, 150) yards / 110 (123, 137) meters
- Hooks: US Size E-4 / 3.5 mm for squares; US Size D-3 / 3.25 mm for edging and seaming
- Notions: Yarn needle for weaving ends and seaming; scissors; stitch markers, at least 10; rust-proof pins for blocking; measuring tape
For this project, prioritize machine washability since it is a toddler garment. A soft premium acrylic in DK weight is a wonderful pick, incredibly soft against toddler skin and easy for busy parents to wash. If your budget allows, a superwash merino wool is a lovely luxury option.
Gauge
One complete daisy granny square, blocked, should measure 2.5 in x 2.5 in / 6.4 cm x 6.4 cm (2.75 in x 2.75 in / 7 cm x 7 cm, 3 in x 3 in / 7.6 cm x 7.6 cm) using your US E-4 / 3.5 mm hook.
Gauge is critical for a fitted garment. Please make at least two squares before beginning the full project and adjust your hook size as needed. Going up one hook size increases square size, and going down one size decreases it.
Abbreviations
- ch: chain
- sl st: slip stitch (insert hook, yarn over, pull through both loops at once)
- sc: single crochet (insert hook, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through both loops)
- dc: double crochet (yarn over, insert hook, pull up loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops)
- tr: treble crochet (yarn over twice, insert hook, pull up loop, then yarn over and pull through 2 loops three times)
- st/sts: stitch/stitches
How to Crochet the Daisy Granny Square
Round 1 (Yellow Center with CB)
Make a magic ring. Ch 3 (counts as dc throughout). Yo, insert hook into ring, pull up loop, yo, draw through 2 loops. Repeat 4 more times into ring. Yo, draw through all 6 loops on hook. Ch 1 to close bobble. (1 DCB made.) Ch 1. Work 7 sc into the ring around the bobble base. Pull magic ring tight. Sl st to first sc to join. (8 sc, 1 bobble center)
Round 2 (White Petals with CC)
Join CC with sl st to any sc from Round 1. Each petal is worked into each sc as follows: sl st into sc, ch 4, tr into same sc, ch 4, sl st into same sc. Work one petal into each of the 8 sc around. After the last petal, sl st to first sl st of round. (8 petals)
Gently tug each petal to open it before moving on. This helps the daisy shape really pop.
Round 3 (Sage Green Background with MC)
Join MC with sl st into the top of any petal tr. Ch 3 (counts as dc). Work 2 dc into same petal tr. (beginning 3-dc group made) Ch 2. Sk next petal. Work 3 dc into top of next petal tr. Ch 1. Sk next petal. Work 3 dc into top of next petal tr. Ch 2. Sk next petal. Work 3 dc into top of next petal tr. Ch 1. Sk next petal. Work 3 dc into top of next petal tr. Ch 2. Sk next petal. Work 3 dc into top of next petal tr. Ch 1. Sk next petal. Sl st to top of beg ch-3 to join. (4 corners with ch-2 sp, 4 sides with ch-1 sp, 8 groups of 3 dc = 24 dc)
Round 4 (Cream Border/Joining Round with CA)
Join CA with sl st to any ch-2 corner sp. Ch 3 (counts as dc). Work (2 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) into same corner ch-2 sp. (first corner shell made) Ch 1. Work 3 dc into next ch-1 side sp. Ch 1. Work (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) into next ch-2 corner sp. Ch 1. Work 3 dc into next ch-1 side sp. Ch 1. Repeat from corner to corner until all 4 corners and 4 sides are worked. Sl st to top of beg ch-3 to join. (4 corner ch-3 sp, 4 side 3-dc groups, 8 corner 3-dc groups = 36 dc, 4 ch-3 corners, 4 ch-1 spaces)
Fasten off CA. Weave in all ends. Block square to correct dimensions before assembly.
Joining Your Squares into Panels
Build your panels by joining squares on Round 4 using the Picot Join method. When working Round 4 of any square that sits next to a completed square, replace the ch-3 corner with a Picot Join at each shared corner. Replace each ch-1 side space with a sl st join through the corresponding ch-1 space of the neighbor square. Always join squares with right sides facing up. Your joins should be nearly invisible from the front.
Panel Layout for Size 12 to 18 Months
- Front Bib and Body Panel: 4 squares wide x 8 squares tall (10 in wide x 20 in tall)
- Back Panel: 4 squares wide x 8 squares tall (identical to front)
- Right Trouser Leg Panel: 2 squares wide x 4 squares tall (5 in wide x 10 in tall)
- Left Trouser Leg Panel: same as right leg
- Right Strap Panel: 1 square wide x 2 squares tall (2.5 in wide x 5 in tall)
- Left Strap Panel: same as right strap
Step by Step Garment Assembly
Use your yarn needle with CA yarn and mattress stitch for all seaming. Keep seams neat on the wrong side.
Step 1: Side Seams. Lay front and back panels flat with right sides together. Pin side edges. Seam left side from bottom up for 15 in, leaving the top 5 in unseamed to create the armhole opening. Repeat for right side. Turn right side out.
Step 2: Create the Trouser Leg Tubes. Fold each trouser leg panel with right sides together so the 4-square tall edges meet, forming a tube. Seam the back edge of each leg tube from bottom to top.
Step 3: Attach Trouser Legs. Seam the center bottom 5 in of the front panel to the center bottom 5 in of the back panel to begin forming the crotch. Attach the right trouser leg tube by matching its top open edge to the right leg opening of the joined body. Pin with right sides together and seam around. Repeat for left leg.
Step 4: Crotch Seam. With front and back right sides together at the crotch, seam from front to back between the legs for approximately 2 in to define the crotch depth.
Step 5: Attach Straps. Pin each strap panel to the corresponding front bib corner with right sides together. Seam strap bottom edge to bib front top corner. Bring strap over shoulder. Seam strap top edge to back panel top edge approximately 2.5 in in from each side edge.
Edging for a Professional Finish
Work all edging with your US D-3 / 3.25 mm hook and CA.
Leg Hem Edging (work on each leg)
Join CA with sl st to any st at bottom edge of leg.
Round 1: Sc evenly around leg opening, working 1 sc into each dc, 1 sc into each ch-1 sp, and 2 sc into each ch-3 corner sp. Sl st to first sc to join.
Round 2: Ch 1. Sc in each sc around. Sl st to first sc.
Round 3: Ch 1. Work reverse sc (crab stitch) in each sc around. Sl st to first sc. Fasten off.
Armhole Edging (work on each armhole)
Join CA with sl st to any st at armhole edge.
Round 1: Sc evenly around armhole opening. Sl st to join.
Round 2: Ch 1. Sc in each sc around. Sl st to join.
Round 3: Reverse sc around. Sl st. Fasten off.
Neckline and Bib Top Edging
Join CA with sl st at top right corner of bib front.
Row 1: Sc across top of bib front, up right strap, across back top, down left strap, and across bib front top back to start. Work 3 sc into each outer corner. Sl st to join.
Row 2: Sc in each sc, working 3 sc into outer corners. Sl st.
Row 3: Reverse sc all around. Sl st. Fasten off.
Matching Bucket Hat (Optional)
Want to complete the look? The matching bucket hat uses 24 additional daisy squares.
- Hat crown: 4 squares arranged in a 2×2 grid (approximately 5 in x 5 in)
- Hat sides: 8 squares joined into a strip, then seamed into a tube
- Hat brim: 12 squares joined into a strip, then seamed into a tube
Attach the side tube to the crown grid with right sides together, easing the crown to fit. Then attach the brim tube to the bottom of the side tube. Finish with 2 rounds of sc edging around the outer brim edge, followed by 1 round of reverse sc.
Blocking and Care Instructions
Wet blocking is strongly recommended for all squares before assembly. Submerge completed squares in cool water, roll in a towel to remove excess moisture, and pin each square to a blocking mat at exact target dimensions. Allow to dry completely before joining.
Care: Machine wash cold on gentle cycle. Lay flat to dry. Do not tumble dry. Do not wring. Steam blocking between washes will restore the beautiful square definition.
Final Thoughts
And there it is, a whole daisy field your little one gets to wear. Yes, it is a lot of squares, but each one is small and portable, perfect for slow evenings on the couch. The finished jumpsuit is pure sunshine, and that matching bucket hat just takes it over the top. If you make this set, I would love to hear about it. Happy crocheting, friend!
