Some designs arrive fully formed, and some take three years, a beach vacation in Portugal, and a beat-up notebook to finally come to life. This ocean blue two-piece beach set — I call it Starfish Summer — is the second kind, and honestly, I think the wait made it better.
What you get is a bold ocean blue halter crop top with a sweetheart neckline and high-waisted boy-short bottoms, both with lace-up side details in cream rope-style cords that tie in bows. A sweet crocheted starfish applique sits right at the center front of the top. It is a fashion coverup or beach set — not a performance swimsuit for actual swimming.
About This Pattern
The construction uses flat panels that you seam together at the sides. You will work primarily in single crochet, which creates the dense fabric you see in the photos. This fabric has good structure and resists stretching, making it perfect for a fitted garment.
This pattern is written for one size, with these finished measurements:
- Bust circumference: 32 to 34 inches (81 to 86 cm)
- Top length from underarm to lower point: 6.5 inches (16.5 cm)
- Halter ties: approximately 18 inches (46 cm) each
- Waist circumference: 28 to 30 inches (71 to 76 cm) unstretched
- Hip circumference: 34 to 36 inches (86 to 91 cm)
- Inseam: approximately 3 inches (7.5 cm)
- Rise: approximately 9 inches (23 cm)
I would rate this an intermediate pattern. You should feel comfortable with working flat panels and seaming, creating shaped edges including the sweetheart curve, working a motif in the round (for the starfish), executing an applied slip stitch edging, using an adjustable ring, and working into chain spaces. If some of these techniques are new to you, take your time and do not rush.
Expect 12 to 18 hours to complete the entire set at an average pace: top approximately 5 to 7 hours, bottoms approximately 6 to 9 hours, starfish applique and finishing approximately 1 to 2 hours. A perfect project for several evenings or a long weekend — work the top first since it comes together faster.
Materials You Will Need
- DK weight cotton yarn: approximately 650 yards (595 m) ocean blue and approximately 150 yards (137 m) cream
- Recommended yarns: Lion Brand 24/7 Cotton in Denim (blue) and Ecru (cream) — each skein contains 186 yards; Paintbox Yarns Cotton DK in Royal Blue and Paper White — each skein contains 137 yards; Drops Safran in Petrol Blue and Off White
- Choose 100 percent cotton or a cotton blend DK weight yarn with low stretch. Avoid yarns with lycra or elastic content. Always check your gauge with any substitute yarn.
- US size E-4 (3.5 mm) crochet hook for main fabric; US size D-3 (3.25 mm) hook for edging and ties if you prefer a tighter finish
- 6 to 8 stitch markers, plus removable stitch markers
- Straight pins for blocking
- One 12-inch (30 cm) piece of cardboard or a ruler for blocking starfish points
Gauge
18 sc x 20 rows = 4 inches (10 cm), worked flat in single crochet using a US E-4 (3.5 mm) hook and DK weight cotton yarn, blocked.
Gauge is mandatory for a fitted garment. Swatch at least a 5 x 5 inch square, wash and block it, then measure the center 4 inches. If your gauge is off, adjust your hook size up or down until you match.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch = chain
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- sc2tog = single crochet two together (decrease)
- sc3tog = single crochet three together
- inc = increase (2 sc in same stitch)
- RS = right side (faces out when worn)
- WS = wrong side (the inside)
Special Stitches and Techniques
Sweetheart Decrease
This technique creates the gentle V shape at the center front of the top, worked over 3 stitches at center front. Work sc2tog using the stitch immediately before center and the center stitch, then work sc into the stitch immediately after center. This creates a single-stitch decrease that forms the sweetheart curve when repeated over several rows at the same center position.
Applied Slip Stitch Edging
This creates the clean cream border around the edges. With RS facing and cream yarn, insert hook into edge stitch and draw up a loop. Chain 1. Work 1 sl st into each stitch or row end along the edge, keeping tension consistent. At corners, work 3 sl sts into the corner stitch so the edge lies flat. Fasten off and weave in end.
Lace-Up Cords
Make a foundation chain of 120 chains for top side ties, or 160 chains for bottom side ties, using cream yarn. Slip stitch into each chain back to the start to create a rounded cord. Fasten off leaving a 6-inch tail for securing. You will thread these cords through the side eyelets later.
Starfish Applique
This sweet applique is worked in the round using cream yarn, with 5 points worked from a central ring.
Round 1: Make an adjustable ring. Ch 1. Work 10 sc into ring. Pull tail to close ring. Sl st to first sc to join. (10 sc)
Round 2: Ch 1. Work 2 sc into each st around. Sl st to join. (20 sc)
Round 3: Ch 1. Work 1 sc into first st, 2 sc into next st. Repeat around. Sl st to join. (30 sc)
Now work 5 points — each point uses 6 stitches from Round 3:
Sl st to first st of point group. Ch 1. Work 6 sc across the 6 designated sts. Turn. Ch 1. Sc2tog, sc 2, sc2tog. Turn. (4 sc). Ch 1. Sc2tog, sc2tog. Turn. (2 sc). Fasten off. Rejoin yarn at base of next point group and repeat for all 5 points.
After all points are complete, use your yarn needle to work a light whipstitch around the outer edge of each point to define the shape. Block over cardboard to open the points before sewing to the top.
Eyelets
This creates the channels for the lace-up cord. On the appropriate rows, replace 2 consecutive stitches with: ch 2, skip 2 sts. On the following row, work 2 sc into the ch-2 space. This creates a horizontal eyelet through which the cord threads.
Pattern Notes
- Both pieces are worked flat in rows and seamed at the shoulders and sides. The exception is the lace-up side, which stays open and gets finished with eyelets and cord.
- The top uses two front panels and one back panel. The two front panels create the sweetheart neckline by shaping independently, then joining at the lower point.
- The bottoms use a front panel and a back panel. The back panel is slightly taller to accommodate seat coverage.
- When joining a new color, always do it at the beginning of a row — work the last yarn-over of your final stitch with the new color.
- Use a stitch marker to track your center dip position when counting rows for sweetheart shaping.
- Apply cream edging after all seaming is complete.
- All turning chains count as nothing. The ch 1 at the start of each row is a turning chain only — do not work into it at the end of the following row.
Halter Crop Top
Section A: Back Panel
With blue yarn and E-4 hook, ch 74. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (73 sc). Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (73 sc).
Now begin upper shaping — the back panel tapers toward the top edge to follow the body:
Ch 1. Sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (71 sc)
Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (71 sc)
Ch 1. Sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (69 sc)
Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (69 sc)
Ch 1. Sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (67 sc)
Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (67 sc)
Ch 1. Sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (65 sc)
Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (65 sc)
Ch 1. Sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (63 sc)
Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (63 sc)
Ch 1. Sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (61 sc)
Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (61 sc)
Ch 1. Sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (59 sc)
Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (59 sc)
Ch 1. Sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (57 sc)
Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (57 sc)
Ch 1. Sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (55 sc)
Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (55 sc)
Ch 1. Sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (53 sc)
Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (53 sc)
Ch 1. Sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (51 sc)
Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (51 sc)
Fasten off and set aside. After Row 32, your back panel should measure approximately 6.4 inches (16 cm) tall and 11.3 inches (28.5 cm) wide at the top edge.
Section B: Front Left Panel
With blue yarn and E-4 hook, ch 38. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (37 sc). Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (37 sc).
Now begin sweetheart and side shaping — the outer side decreases to shape the upper edge, and the inner edge decreases to create the V of the sweetheart neckline:
Ch 1. Sc2tog (outer edge decrease), sc to last 2 sts at inner edge, sc2tog. Turn. (35 sc)
Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (35 sc)
Ch 1. Sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (33 sc)
Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (33 sc)
Ch 1. Sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (31 sc)
Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (31 sc)
Ch 1. Sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (29 sc)
Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (29 sc)
Ch 1. Sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (27 sc)
Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (27 sc)
Ch 1. Sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (25 sc)
Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (25 sc)
Ch 1. Sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (23 sc)
Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (23 sc)
Ch 1. Sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (21 sc)
Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (21 sc)
Ch 1. Sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (19 sc)
Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (19 sc)
Ch 1. Sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (17 sc)
Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (17 sc)
Ch 1. Sc2tog, sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (15 sc)
Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (15 sc)
Halter strap for left panel: Ch 1. Sc in first 3 sts only. Turn. (3 sc). Ch 1. Sc 3. Turn. (3 sc). Continue to approximately 18 inches (46 cm) long. Fasten off leaving a 10-inch tail for finishing and tying.
Section C: Front Right Panel
With blue yarn and E-4 hook, ch 38. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (37 sc). Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (37 sc).
Begin shaping — this mirrors the left panel, so the outer edge is now on the right when RS is facing:
Ch 1. Sc2tog (inner edge), sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog (outer edge). Turn. (35 sc)
Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (35 sc)
Continue the same decrease pattern as the left panel through Row 32, ending with (15 sc).
Halter strap for right panel: Ch 1. Sc in last 3 sts only. Turn. (3 sc). Ch 1. Sc 3. Turn. (3 sc). Continue to approximately 18 inches (46 cm). Fasten off leaving a 10-inch tail.
Each front panel should measure approximately 6.4 inches (16 cm) tall at Row 32 and approximately 8.2 inches (21 cm) wide at the foundation.
Section D: Top Assembly and Side Eyelets
Join the two front panels at the lower center point. Hold the front left and front right panels with WS together, inner edges (sweetheart sides) aligned at the bottom. The panels do not join across the center top — they only seam at the lower bottom tip. Insert hook through both layers at the bottom point and work 4 sl sts upward, joining the bottom 4 rows of the inner edges. This creates the sweetheart dip anchor. Fasten off and weave in.
The assembled front panel should be approximately 74 stitches wide at the foundation row, matching the back panel width of 73 stitches. The difference of 1 stitch is absorbed in the side seam.
Align the front assembly and back panel at the lower edges with RS together. Whipstitch the right side seam from Row 1 up to Row 10 only — the lower 2 inches (5 cm). Leave the upper portion of the right side open for the lace-up detail. The left side seam is worked from Row 1 up through Row 32 entirely, joining front and back across the full height.
Eyelet placement on right side (lace-up side): After seaming the lower right side through Row 10, the open edges of Rows 11 through 32 form the lace-up channel. Using cream yarn and the applied slip stitch edging method, work 1 sl st edging along the open right side edge of the front panel from Row 11 to Row 32, working into each row end. Repeat for the back panel open right edge. Thread one 120-chain lace-up cord in a criss-cross pattern through the row end spaces between the two edged strips, from Row 11 to Row 32. Tie at top and bottom.
Section E: Cream Edging on Top
With cream yarn and E-4 hook, RS facing, work applied slip stitch edging around the entire lower edge of the top (foundation chain row), across the sweetheart neckline edges of both front panels, and along the upper straight edge of the back panel. At the inner sweetheart corners (the V dip), work 1 sc instead of a sl st to prevent puckering. At the outer upper corners, work 3 sl sts into the corner to keep the fabric flat. Do not edge the strap lengths. Fasten off and weave in all ends.
Section F: Attach Starfish Applique
Block the completed starfish as described earlier. Position it at the center front of the joined front panel, approximately 1.5 inches (4 cm) below the sweetheart neckline, and pin in place. Using cream yarn and a yarn needle, work a small whipstitch around the entire perimeter of the starfish, catching only the surface layer of the top fabric so your stitches are invisible from the WS. Fasten off and weave in.
High-Waisted Boy-Short Bottoms
Section A: Front Panel
With blue yarn and E-4 hook, ch 64. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (63 sc). Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (63 sc).
Begin hip shaping with gradual increases:
Ch 1. Inc in first st, sc to last st, inc in last st. Turn. (65 sc)
Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (65 sc)
Ch 1. Inc in first st, sc to last st, inc in last st. Turn. (67 sc)
Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (67 sc)
Ch 1. Inc in first st, sc to last st, inc in last st. Turn. (69 sc)
Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (69 sc)
Ch 1. Inc in first st, sc to last st, inc in last st. Turn. (71 sc)
Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (71 sc)
Ch 1. Inc in first st, sc to last st, inc in last st. Turn. (73 sc)
Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (73 sc)
Begin inseam shaping and leg opening. At Row 15, the panel divides for the crotch opening.
Row 16 (right leg portion): Ch 1. Sc in first 31 sts. Turn. (31 sc). Leave remaining sts unworked.
Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (31 sc)
Ch 1. Sc2tog, sc to end. Turn. (30 sc)
Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (30 sc)
Ch 1. Sc2tog, sc to end. Turn. (29 sc)
Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (29 sc)
Ch 1. Sc2tog, sc to end. Turn. (28 sc)
Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (28 sc)
Ch 1. Sc2tog, sc to end. Turn. (27 sc)
Return to Row 15. Skip 11 center sts (these form the crotch gap). Rejoin blue yarn in 43rd st of Row 15.
Row 16 (left leg portion): Ch 1. Sc in next 31 sts. Turn. (31 sc)
Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (31 sc)
Ch 1. Sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (30 sc)
Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (30 sc)
Ch 1. Sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (29 sc)
Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (29 sc)
Ch 1. Sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (28 sc)
Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (28 sc)
Ch 1. Sc to last 2 sts, sc2tog. Turn. (27 sc)
The front panel should measure approximately 4.8 inches (12 cm) wide at the lower leg openings and approximately 16.2 inches (41 cm) wide at the widest row (Row 15). Total height from foundation to Row 24 should be approximately 4.8 inches (12 cm).
Section B: Back Panel
The back panel is taller to accommodate seat coverage. With blue yarn and E-4 hook, ch 64. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (63 sc). Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (63 sc). Work the same increase pattern as the front panel (73 sc at end of Row 15).
Ch 1. Inc in first st, sc to last st, inc in last st. Turn. (75 sc)
Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (75 sc)
Ch 1. Inc in first st, sc to last st, inc in last st. Turn. (77 sc)
Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (77 sc)
Begin back crotch shaping:
Row 20 (right leg back): Ch 1. Sc in first 33 sts. Turn. (33 sc). Leave remaining sts unworked.
Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (33 sc)
Ch 1. Sc2tog, sc to end. Turn. (32 sc)
Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (32 sc)
Ch 1. Sc2tog, sc to end. Turn. (31 sc)
Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (31 sc)
Ch 1. Sc2tog, sc to end. Turn. (30 sc)
Ch 1. Sc in each st across. Turn. (30 sc)
Ch 1. Sc2tog, sc to end. Turn. (29 sc)
Return to Row 19. Skip 11 center sts. Rejoin blue yarn in 45th st of Row 19.
Row 20 (left leg back): Ch 1. Sc in next 33 sts. Turn. (33 sc). Continue with the same shaping through Row 28, ending with (29 sc).
The back panel should measure approximately 5.6 inches (14 cm) tall to the top of Row 28 and approximately 19.4 inches (49 cm) wide at Row 19.
Section C: Assembly of Bottoms
Hold front and back panels with WS together. Align the 11 skipped center stitches of the front (Row 15, center 11) with the 11 skipped center stitches of the back (Row 19, center 11). Using blue yarn and a yarn needle, whipstitch these 11 stitches together to form the crotch seam.
Align the left side edges of front and back panels from the foundation row to the top of the leg openings. Using blue yarn and a whipstitch, seam the left side from foundation through Row 24 of front and corresponding rows of back. Continue seaming the waist edges together along the left side.
Right side seam (lace-up side): Do not seam the right side. Apply cream applied slip stitch edging to both the front right side edge and the back right side edge separately. Thread the longer 160-chain lace-up cord through the channel in a criss-cross pattern, just as you did for the top.
Apply cream edging around the waistband and leg openings using the applied slip stitch method. Block both pieces lightly by laying flat on a towel and steaming or spritzing with water. Allow to dry completely before wearing.
Tie the halter straps in a bow or knot at the back of the neck. Adjust the lace-up cords on both pieces for a comfortable fit.
Final Thoughts
Starfish Summer was three years in the making, and I am so happy it finally exists in the world. The fitted single crochet fabric, the criss-cross lace-up sides, that little starfish at center front — it all comes together into a beach set that looks straight out of a boutique. Take your gauge swatch seriously on this one and the fit will reward you. Happy crocheting!
