Crocheting a full coat with a hood, raglan shaping, and bell sleeves sounds intimidating. I get it — your brain immediately starts listing all the reasons to stick to dishcloths for another year. But here is the truth: if you can work a half double crochet and a single crochet, you already have the core skills this coat requires.
The construction method is what makes this manageable. You are not sewing a million pieces together at the end. Instead, you work from the top down: hood first, then the yoke, then the body, and finally picking up the sleeves. Each section flows naturally into the next. The raglan increases follow a simple rhythm, and the flared skirt is just single crochet with occasional added stitches. By the end, you will have a stunning mint green hooded coat with snowflake appliques that looks far more complicated than it actually is.
Why This Hooded Coat Pattern Works So Well
The half double crochet ribbed texture on the yoke creates a stretchy, structured fabric that hugs nicely without being stiff — working through the back loop only gives you those beautiful horizontal ridges that mimic knit ribbing. The skirt section switches to regular single crochet, which is slightly airier and lets the fabric drape and swing naturally as the child moves.
The bell sleeves start fitted at the upper arm and flare dramatically at the cuff with a delicate picot edging in cream. The contrast edging ties everything together with the white crochet bow at center front and the snowflake appliques scattered across the hood. The snowflakes are worked separately and sewn on, so you can make as many or as few as you want and position them exactly where they look best.
Skill Level and Time Commitment
I would classify this pattern as intermediate to advanced. You should feel comfortable with:
- Working in rows (back and forth turning work)
- Reading stitch counts across multiple sizes
- Placing and moving stitch markers
- Basic increasing and decreasing
- Seaming pieces together
- Working small appliques
If you are a confident beginner who has completed a few scarves, hats, and maybe a simple sweater, you can absolutely tackle this. Just take your time and read ahead before each section.
Time estimate: plan for approximately 25 to 40 hours depending on size and speed, plus another 2 to 4 hours for the snowflake appliques. Not a weekend project, but absolutely achievable over a few weeks of evening sessions.
Finished Measurements
The pattern includes four sizes, toddler to school age. Instructions are written for size 2T with larger sizes in parentheses: 2T (4T, 6, 8). When only one number appears, it applies to all sizes.
- Size 2T: Chest 22 inches, Length 18 inches, Sleeve 10 inches
- Size 4T: Chest 24 inches, Length 20 inches, Sleeve 11 inches
- Size 6: Chest 26 inches, Length 22 inches, Sleeve 12.5 inches
- Size 8: Chest 28 inches, Length 24 inches, Sleeve 13.5 inches
Materials You Will Need
Yarn (Worsted Weight)
- Mint (Main Color): 600 (750, 900, 1050) yards
- Cream (Contrast Color): 80 yards, for edgings, bow, and snowflakes
A soft 100% acrylic worsted works beautifully here — one large skein of mint plus a partial skein of cream covers all sizes, making this very economical. A smooth, soft acrylic is incredibly comfortable against children’s skin and gives nice drape to the skirt section. Whatever you choose, make sure it meets gauge and is soft enough for a child to wear. Avoid yarns with more than 20 percent wool if the recipient has sensitivities.
Hooks
- US size J / 6.00 mm — main fabric (skirt and sleeves)
- US size I / 5.50 mm — ribbed yoke sections and hood
- US size G / 4.00 mm — snowflake appliques
Notions
- Yarn needle
- Stitch markers (at least 8)
- 4 to 6 sew-on snaps size 1, or 4 to 6 buttons approximately 0.5 inch diameter
- Sewing thread and needle for closures
- Blocking pins and mat
Gauge
Getting gauge right is critical for a garment that needs to fit. Make a swatch before you start.
- With J hook in single crochet (skirt stitch): 14 sc x 16 rows = 4 inches
- With I hook in half double crochet through back loop only (yoke stitch): 13 hdc x 12 rows = 4 inches
Swatch too big? Go down a hook size. Too small? Go up a hook size.
Abbreviations
- blo = back loop only
- ch = chain
- ch-sp = chain space
- dc = double crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- hdc2tog = half double crochet 2 together (decrease)
- inc = increase (2 stitches in the same stitch)
- pm = place marker
- rep = repeat
- rnd = round
- RS = right side
- sc = single crochet
- sc2tog = single crochet 2 together (decrease)
- sk = skip
- sl st = slip stitch
- sm = slip marker
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- t-ch = turning chain
- WS = wrong side
- yo = yarn over
Special Stitches
Half Double Crochet Rib Stitch
Work every stitch through the back loop only: chain your foundation or join as instructed, then for each stitch insert your hook under only the back loop, yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all 3 loops. The unworked horizontal bar creates the raised ridge effect.
Picot Edging
- Work 1 single crochet in the indicated stitch.
- Chain 3.
- Slip stitch into the first chain you made (right at the base).
- Work 1 single crochet in the next stitch.
- Repeat steps 2 through 4 across.
Snowflake Applique (G hook, cream yarn)
Round 1: Make a magic ring, chain 1, work 6 single crochet into the ring, join with a slip stitch to the first single crochet. (6 sc)
Round 2: Chain 6, slip stitch into the 2nd chain from hook, single crochet in next chain, half double crochet in next chain, double crochet in next chain, double crochet in next chain, slip stitch back into the base single crochet (this creates one spoke), chain 1, slip stitch into the next single crochet of Round 1. Repeat five more times for 6 spokes total. Fasten off leaving a 12-inch tail for sewing.
Crochet Bow
With cream yarn and I hook, chain 21.
Row 1: Single crochet in 2nd chain from hook and in each chain across. (20 sc) Chain 1, turn.
Rows 2 through 6: Single crochet in each stitch across. (20 sc) Chain 1, turn.
Fasten off leaving a long tail. Fold the rectangle so both short ends meet at the center, wrap the tail tightly around the center 6 to 8 times, cinch firmly, and knot securely at the back.
The Hood
The hood is worked flat as a single panel, then folded and seamed at the top. Use your I hook and mint yarn.
Chain 29 (31, 33, 35).
Row 1 (WS): Half double crochet in 3rd chain from hook (counts as your first hdc plus turning chain), half double crochet in each chain across. Chain 2, turn. (28, 30, 32, 34 hdc)
Row 2 (RS): Half double crochet through back loop only in each stitch across. Chain 2, turn. (28, 30, 32, 34 hdc)
Rows 3 through 34 (38, 42, 46): Repeat Row 2. (28, 30, 32, 34 hdc each row)
After your final row, do not fasten off. Fold the panel in half widthwise so the two short ends meet. Seam the top edge with a slip stitch seam, right sides together. Turn right side out. The open long edge is your face opening, the seamed edge is the crown, and the bottom open edge attaches to the neckline later.
Optional face edge: with right side facing and J hook, work 1 round of single crochet evenly around the face opening at 1 single crochet per row end. Join with slip stitch and fasten off.
Checkpoint: your finished seamed hood should measure approximately 8.5 (9, 9.5, 10) inches wide at the face opening and 11 (12, 13, 14) inches from crown to neck edge.
The Yoke
The yoke uses raglan construction: markers at four points, increases at those points to shape sleeves and body simultaneously.
Neckline Foundation
Chain 56 (60, 64, 68) with your I hook and mint yarn.
Row 1 (RS, Yoke Setup Row): Half double crochet in 3rd chain from hook and in each chain across. (55, 59, 63, 67 hdc including turning chain)
Place markers to divide the sections:
- After stitch 5 (5, 6, 6) — right front
- After stitch 13 (14, 15, 16) — right sleeve
- After stitch 41 (44, 47, 51) — back
- After stitch 49 (53, 56, 61) — left sleeve
Section counts for Row 1: right front 5 (5, 6, 6) sts; right sleeve 8 (9, 9, 10) sts; back 28 (30, 32, 35) sts; left sleeve 8 (9, 9, 10) sts; left front 5 (5, 6, 6) sts.
Raglan Increase Rows
On every right side row, increase at each of the four raglan marker points — this adds 8 stitches per right side row. Wrong side rows are worked even with no increases.
How to work the increase: half double crochet through back loop only across to 1 stitch before the marker, work 2 hdc-blo in the next stitch, slip the marker, work 2 hdc-blo in the next stitch, continue across. Repeat at all four markers.
Row 2 (WS): Hdc-blo across, slipping markers. No increases. (54, 58, 62, 68 sts)
Row 3 (RS, Inc): increases at all 4 markers, +8 sts. (62, 66, 70, 76 sts)
Row 4 (WS): Even. (62, 66, 70, 76 sts)
Continue increasing on RS rows, working even on WS rows:
- Row 5 (RS, Inc): 70, 74, 78, 84 sts
- Row 6 (WS): Even
- Row 7 (RS, Inc): 78, 82, 86, 92 sts
- Row 8 (WS): Even
- Row 9 (RS, Inc): 86, 90, 94, 100 sts
- Row 10 (WS): Even
- Row 11 (RS, Inc): 94, 98, 102, 108 sts
- Row 12 (WS): Even
- Row 13 (RS, Inc): 102, 106, 110, 116 sts
- Row 14 (WS): Even
- Row 15 (RS, Inc): 110, 114, 118, 124 sts
- Row 16 (WS): Even
- Row 17 (RS, Inc): 118, 122, 126, 132 sts
- Row 18 (WS): Even
- Sizes 6 and 8 continue: Row 19 (RS, Inc): 134, 140 sts; Row 20 (WS): Even
- Size 8 only: Row 21 (RS, Inc): 148 sts; Row 22 (WS): Even
Section counts after all raglan rows:
- Size 2T: right front 13, right sleeve 24, back 44, left sleeve 24, left front 13. Total: 118 sts
- Size 4T: right front 13, right sleeve 25, back 46, left sleeve 25, left front 13. Total: 122 sts
- Size 6: right front 15, right sleeve 27, back 50, left sleeve 27, left front 15. Total: 134 sts
- Size 8: right front 16, right sleeve 30, back 56, left sleeve 30, left front 16. Total: 148 sts
Checkpoint: your yoke should measure approximately 6 (6.5, 7, 7.5) inches from the neckline chain to the bottom.
Body Separation
On the next right side row:
- Work across right front stitches.
- Place right sleeve stitches on a stitch holder or scrap yarn.
- Chain 2 for the underarm.
- Work across back stitches.
- Place left sleeve stitches on holder.
- Chain 2 for the underarm.
- Work across left front stitches.
Body stitch count after separation:
- Size 2T: 13 + 2 + 44 + 2 + 13 = 74 sts
- Size 4T: 13 + 2 + 46 + 2 + 13 = 76 sts
- Size 6: 15 + 2 + 50 + 2 + 15 = 84 sts
- Size 8: 16 + 2 + 56 + 2 + 16 = 92 sts
The Skirt
Switch to your J hook. The skirt is worked in single crochet with periodic increase rows to create the flared A-line shape.
Skirt Row 1 (RS): Single crochet in each stitch across. Chain 1, turn. (74, 76, 84, 92 sc)
Skirt Row 2 (WS): Single crochet across. Chain 1, turn. (74, 76, 84, 92 sc)
Skirt Row 3 (Increase Row, RS): Single crochet 3 (front band), single crochet across body increasing 8 stitches evenly spaced, single crochet 3 (front band). Chain 1, turn. (82, 84, 92, 100 sc)
Skirt Rows 4 through 5: Single crochet across even. Chain 1, turn.
Skirt Row 6 (Increase Row, RS): Add 8 more single crochet evenly. Chain 1, turn. (90, 92, 100, 108 sc)
Skirt Rows 7 through 9: Single crochet across even.
Skirt Row 10 (Increase Row, RS): Add 8 more single crochet evenly. Chain 1, turn. (98, 100, 108, 116 sc)
Skirt Rows 11 through 14: Single crochet across even.
Skirt Row 15 (Increase Row, RS): Add 8 more single crochet evenly. Chain 1, turn. (106, 108, 116, 124 sc)
Skirt Rows 16 through 20: Single crochet across even.
Skirt Row 21 (Increase Row, RS): Add 6 single crochet evenly. Chain 1, turn. (112, 114, 122, 130 sc)
Continue working even rows until your skirt reaches the target length: size 2T approximately 48 rows total, 4T approximately 54 rows, size 6 approximately 60 rows, size 8 approximately 66 rows.
Hem Edging
With J hook and cream yarn, attach at the bottom right front corner with right side facing.
Row 1: Chain 1. Work single crochet across the entire bottom hem edge.
Row 2: Work picot edging across: single crochet in first stitch, (chain 3, slip stitch in first chain of chain-3, single crochet in next stitch) across. Fasten off.
The Sleeves
Return the held sleeve stitches to your J hook. Attach mint yarn at the center underarm chain with right side facing.
Round 1: Single crochet across the underarm chain (2 sts), then single crochet in each held sleeve stitch around, join with slip stitch. (26, 27, 29, 32 sc)
Rounds 2 through 4: Single crochet in each stitch around. (26, 27, 29, 32 sc)
Round 5 (Decrease Round): Work sc2tog at each underarm point, single crochet remaining stitches. (24, 25, 27, 30 sc)
Continue working even rounds until the sleeve measures approximately 7 (8, 9.5, 10.5) inches from the underarm, leaving about 3 inches for the bell cuff.
Bell Cuff Increase Rounds
Round 1: Increase in every 3rd stitch around. (32, 33, 36, 40 sc)
Round 2: Single crochet around even.
Round 3: Increase in every 4th stitch around. (40, 41, 45, 50 sc)
Round 4: Single crochet around even.
Round 5: Increase in every 5th stitch around. (48, 49, 54, 60 sc)
Round 6: Single crochet around even.
Cuff Edging: with cream yarn, work picot edging around the cuff opening. Fasten off.
Repeat for the second sleeve.
Checkpoint: each sleeve should measure approximately 10 (11, 12.5, 13.5) inches from underarm to cuff tip.
Front Band and Neckline Finish
With right side facing and I hook, attach cream yarn at the bottom right front edge.
Row 1: Work single crochet evenly up the right front edge, across any exposed neckline stitches, and down the left front edge. Chain 1, turn.
Row 2: Single crochet across even. Chain 1, turn.
Row 3: For the buttonhole side, work evenly spaced buttonholes: (sc 2, ch 1, sk 1) spaced 2 inches apart, 4 to 6 times. Single crochet remaining stitches. Chain 1, turn.
Row 4: Single crochet across, working 1 sc in each chain-1 space. Chain 1, turn.
Row 5: Single crochet across. Fasten off.
Sew snaps or buttons at the marked positions.
Hood Attachment
Align the bottom edge of the hood with the neckline. With I hook and mint yarn, right side facing, slip stitch or single crochet the hood bottom edge to the neckline edge, working through both layers. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Finishing Touches
Work 3 to 5 snowflake appliques. Sew 2 to 3 on the top and left side of the hood exterior, and add 1 to the lower right front of the coat if desired. Attach the crochet bow at center front, approximately 1.5 inches below the neckline. Weave in all ends. Wet block the finished coat by submerging in cool water, gently pressing out excess moisture, and pinning to a blocking mat. Allow to dry completely before wearing.
Care Instructions
For most acrylic yarns: machine wash cold on a gentle cycle, lay flat to dry. Do not tumble dry on high heat or iron.
Size Customization Tips
- To lengthen the coat: add more even rows to the skirt — every 4 rows adds approximately 1 inch.
- To widen the chest: add 6 to 8 stitches to the neckline foundation and add 1 to 2 additional raglan increase rows.
- To lengthen sleeves: work additional even rounds before beginning the bell cuff increases.
Final Thoughts
This is a project you grow into as you work it — the hood teaches you ribbed texture, the yoke teaches you raglan math, the skirt teaches you patience, and the bell sleeves are your reward at the end. Twenty-five to forty hours sounds like a lot until you realize it is just a few cozy evenings a week for a month, and what you get is a coat no store sells. Make it in mint with the snowflakes for winter magic, or switch the colors and skip the appliques for an everyday version your kid will live in.
